Wednesday 20 July 2011

Borders…..and more Borders…..

Qalqiliya Checkpoint at Separation Wall - 4am waiting for  gates to open

After counter-clicking 4,215 people (70 women) through the Qalqiliya checkpoint at the ‘Green Line’ Separation Wall, on their way to work in Israel for the day, I was already dreaming about Tel Aviv’s sea I would enjoy that afternoon. I watched these sullen faces between 4-6:30am go through 2 turnstiles leading onto a long passage to magnetic card machines which allow workers out of what looks like a temporary barbed wired prison.

Tensions flared, as men pushed through the extra narrow turnstiles (60 cm compared to an international standard of 90cm wide). “Kadima, kadima, Kadima” chanted the Israeli security lady hidden in her booth. “Forward, forward, forward” – like herding cattle, as though workers could rush in their congested line.  My EA co-worker, Sandra, telephoned the ‘Humanitarian Hotline’ to report the ‘go-slow’. 

Qalqiliya checkpoint barbed fences and gates
          “Lady”, shrilled the guard, “Don’t walk around over there. You will delay the people!” as she shut down the turnstiles.  Sandra was only 15 meters from our gate post monitoring the go-slow, oblivious that she could pose any threat to workers’ movements.
         
Jayyus is a 10 minute ride to Jaljoulia ‘border post’ through which only those with permits to Israel can pass. It’s actually on occupied Palestinian territory so that (illegal) settlements have access to Israel (which is on the west side of the Green Line). My Palestinian taxi dropped me 50 metres from the gate; only Israeli cars can get near. As I walked to the gate to hitch a ride on the other side, an apprehensive soldier left his post and quickly approached me (a grey-haired lady with a small rucksack) with rifle ready. Another young soldier glanced at my passport (I had to point out where the Israeli visa was), smiled (as though he was chalking up another new experience), and wished me a nice trip.
          I hadn’t hitch-hiked for decades!  A kind Israeli man gave me a lift to Tel Aviv, only 20 minutes away.  The sea at sunset washed my tensions and sadness away, as did some cold beers.  Now, I have another dream……
          But I can’t rave to my Palestinian contacts about the wonderful sea – they don’t have permits to enjoy that Israeli side of life……

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